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- APPROVAL PROCESS AND RESERVATIONS
Reservations Aisling offers Labrador puppies for sale through a process in which we get to know you and the environment our puppies will be living in once they leave our home. But before we get to the Contact Form, we want you to understand our policies and procedures. Thanks for taking the time to read this page through. Communication! At Aisling Labradors of NE Florida, it is our goal to treat our customers as we wish to be treated and we expect the same from those to whom we extend this courtesy . Once a reservation has been placed, we will communicate with you throughout the entire process. And we ask that in return, a prompt reply to our emails is received to confirm your ability to provide a home for the puppy being held for you. Those on our waiting lists receive all the same communications as our reservation holders. An email when.... our girl comes into season.... You will receive an email on day one of a heat so that you can begin to prepare for your puppy's arrival! An email when.... She has been bred and another when we have confirmed the pregnancy! Once the breeding has taken place, you will be provided with the approximate date of birth of your puppy. You will also hear the tentative dates of Puppy Pick Out and Go Home days so you can mark your calendars! An email when .... your puppy has been born! This is the most exciting email of all! This is when the dates for Pick Out and Pick Up will be made firm so you can clear your schedules and be ready to choose your puppy and then finally, welcome your new family member into your home. And the communication doesn't stop there. Our Facebook and Instagram page are updated several times each week with updates on the litter's progress and with weekly videos in our "Watch Them Grow" series. Puppy Pick Out Day! Appointment Email When the litter reaches 4 weeks of age, we schedule the appointments for Puppy Pick Out. Appointments are scheduled in the order of the receipt of reservations. We ask that you confirm your appointment by the Monday following this email. Pick Out Day Using the information you have provided us through the journey from approval, we guide your choice of puppy based upon our assessment of temperament. If you have a name already chosen for your new family member, we begin to call the puppy by that name. After Puppy Pick Out Day We send out our Puppy Care Packet via email before you bring home your new puppy. While you wait for Pick Up Day, this packet helps prepare you for the puppy's transition from our home to yours! Pick UP Day! Aisling Labradors puppies go home at 8 weeks of age with their first round of vaccinations completed and Health Certification as required by Florida Law. Appointments are nearly always scheduled on the Saturday following their 8 week birthday. Going home on a Saturday allows the weekend for the family to help the pup transition before returning to work and school on Monday. Microchips Your puppy comes home already microchipped. We recommend registering with AKC ReUnite as it is the most used database for Pure Bred Dogs in the U.S.; a one-time registration fee allows you to update your information for the lifetime of your dog. 30 Days of Free Insurance We provide 30 days of free insurance with no waiting period for accident and injury via Trupanion. You will also be offered an additional 30 days of free coverage when you register your puppy with the AKC. We HIGHLY recommend that your puppy is insured for at least the first two years as this is when injury and illness are most likely. Lifetime Support You will receive a puppy care packet in pdf form before Pick UP day to allow you time to learn or remember the best ways to feed, train and socialize your new family member. And we are always a phone call or email away! The Approval Process Reservations We accept 3 reservations per gender per litter; in a dual colored litter, we accept 2 reservations per gender of each color expected. Puppies are considered sold when a reservation is made and is no longer made available to others, therefore reservations are non-refundable but transferrable one time. Contact Form The approval process begins with the contact form below. We will respond via email within 24 hours in most cases. If you are interested in moving forward in the approval process, please respond to the email. Available Older Dogs Approval Once the approval process has been completed and you have confirmed that you want to reserve a puppy from a specific litter, the reservation fee must be received within 24 hours. We consider the reservation closed upon receiving your confirmation; after that 24 hours, the reservation will be opened and made available to others. Reservation fees are paid via Zelle. If you are interested in an older puppy or dog, please use the contact form on Available Older Dogs YOU MUST FILL OUT EVERY FIELD IN THE FORM BELOW TO SUCCESSFULLY SUBMIT IT. IF YOUR FORM DOES NOT GO THROUGH, BE CERTAIN YOU HAVE FILLED OUT THE FIRST BOX ON THE SECOND PAGE AND RETRY SUBMISSION. THANK YOU. Contact Us (Puppy Approval Process) First name Email Last name Phone City and State Gender Color Continue We reserve the right to use a different stud for any breeding. There may be times when a stud is not available due to health or other issues which may result in a litter of a different color due to the coat color genes all Labradors carry. The health and well-being of our Labradors comes first in all things. Thank you for your understanding. We also reserve the right to choose to keep any puppy that shows promise for our breeding program and to transfer or refund any reservation for any reason. Next: About Us Proud to register with the AKC Puppies are sold with a Limited AKC Registration and must be spayed or neutered at the appropriate age unless otherwise agreed. Full Registration is available to approved families interested in showing or breeding their Labrador under additional terms and conditions. The registered name of your puppy must include the prefix "Aisling's" to preserve your health warranty.
- HIP DYSPLASIA IN LABRADORS
Hip Dysplasia A genetic predisposition is a genetic (unseen) characteristic, which influences the possible phenotypic (seen) development of an individual organism within a species or population under the influence of environmental conditions. “Factors such as excessive growth rate, types of exercise, and improper weight and nutrition can magnify this genetic predisposition”. American Kennel Club (Best Viewed On Desktop) Our Angus, diagnosed at 10 months, swimming with Kona at the Gulf. After this trip, he was diagnosed with elbow dyplasia as well. 30% Genetic Predisposition Hip Dysplasia 70% Environment “Why are so many Labradors STILL being diagnosed with hip dysplasia even though their parents were OFA certified?” "MY breeder gave me a warranty on my puppy's hips and elbows and I will get my money back if my dog gets dysplasia". "I would never buy a puppy whose Dam or Sire had a "Fair" hip rating. I recently was visiting a Labrador Forum where yet another Lab from OFA tested parents had just been diagnosed with dysplasia. Nestled in amongst all the condolences were the quotes you see above. Before our Angus was diagnosed with dysplasia, I might have said the same as that last quote. I know for sure that I thought the same. I had chosen a breeder whose Bitch was certified “Excellent” who had chosen a Stud with an “Excellent” certification. And there was that health warranty. I had done everything possible to ensure that I didn’t have a Labrador who would suffer from HD. Right? The answer is no. The honest answer anyway. 70% Environment The genetic predisposition is triggered by the environment. Breeders and Pet Owners alike put far too much faith in subjective, phenotypic testing and health warranties. I did not provide the proper environment for Angus. I over fed him and over exercised him. I allowed him to play on stairs, jump as often as he wanted, allowed unsupervised play with older dogs with more aggressive play styles. I allowed the OFA certification of his parents and a breeder's health warranty to give me a false sense of security. Although his breeder honored the Hip warranty and refunded our purchase price, that was little consolation to me as I watched 10 month old Angus struggle while we found the tools to manage his pain. After Angus was diagnosed we continued to raise Kona, then Dreama with the dream of becoming breeders. While I raised them, I read everything I could find on the subject. I wanted to understand how I could prevent the disorder in not only our own girls, but in any of their future offspring. Hip Dysplasia is not "inherited" in the way that automatically comes to mind when one reads that word. The reality is that that inheritance is because of traits of the breed itself; in other words, every Labrador has the potential to develop dysplasia and how they are raised will in the majority of cases, determine whether they do or not. I learned that breeder and owner education provides the most hope in preventing the disorder. This page was created for those who, like me, love a dog that has this debilitating disorder; those who are about to bring home an Aisling puppy; and for other Breeders who want to protect their own offspring. Traits in the Labrador that predispose the breed to dysplasia Rate of Growth: The average Labrador weighs about 1 pound at birth; they double their weight by 2 weeks of age and by 8 weeks weigh on average between 12 and 16 pounds. This rapid growth continues until they are about 6 months of age. By 8 months of age, they are nearly at their adult weight which can be anywhere from 65 to 100 pounds and are at about 80% of their adult height. All parts of the Labrador do NOT grow at the same pace which creates weaknesses in areas that may lead to injury which may lead to issues within the hip joint or elbow - an injury in one leg affects the gait of other legs increasing the odds of joint issues in a second leg. Temperament: Food Obsession can lead to over-eating and over-heavy puppies/dogs From 6 weeks of age; Labrador puppies are extremely high energy; much of their awake time is spend running and jumping Bred to face icy waters, the breed has a very high pain tolerance; this, combined with the high rate of energy, can lead to undiagnosed injury and inflammation. When a Labrador puppy plays, they play full out. When they run, they run full out. This high energy continues until they are at least 2 years of age and with some Labradors, until they are 3 years of age! Many owners will seek to find outlets for this high energy that are inappropriate for the growing puppy excessive leash walking on hard surfaces like pavement excessive retrieving where the puppy is jumping to catch a ball, stick or frizz bee; activities like agility training where consideration is not given to age appropriate training allowing the puppy jump up on doors, fences, and windowsills, on and off of furniture and in and out of vehicles Despite decades of searching for a "gene" that would identify which dogs will get dysplasia, one has not been found, nor has any combination of genes been deemed as responsible (there have been reports that STR's and SNP's - in the thousands - have been suspected of causing dysplasia, but as of now, no genetic test is available). There is currently NO genetic test that can be given to ensure that two Labradors will not ever produce a puppy that will develop dysplasia. 30% Genetic Predispositon & Selective Breeding Six decades past and then again twenty-two years ago, Breeders were asked to be patient and allow several generations of selective breeding to eliminate canine dysplasia. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 210(10):1474-9 · May 1997 Without a genetic test to rely on, Breeders have participated in phenotypic evaluation based on subjective readings of x-rays to include or eliminate dogs from their breeding program. Nearly 70 years have passed, choosing our breeding stock based upon the certifications for their hips and elbows has NOT eliminated dysplasia. While OFA Breed Trend reports show an improvement, 12-14% of selectively bred Labradors are still being diagnosed with dysplasia. Breeders can improve the odds for puppies but cannot prevent the disorder entirely because a determination of "Normal" Hips and "Normal" Elbows by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals does NOT eliminate the risk for the offspring and along with Breeder Health Warrantees, provide a false sense of security to far too many Labrador owners. The reason for the continued incidence of dysplasia in selectively bred dogs should be clear - environment plays a much higher part in the condition than previously realized. Understanding the OFA Rating Method Preliminary testing is done before the age of two years; the X-ray of hips is read by only one radiologist. Final certification (after the age of two years) is read by three radiologists. NORMAL Hips are rated as Excellent, Good, or Fair but ALL are considered normal. The variance is in slight changes to the joint. BORDERLINE Hips means the dog does NOT have dysplasia but has changes that indicate that it may develop later onset dysplasia / arthritis. DYSPLASTIC Hips are rated as Mild, Moderate, or Severe. The OFA reports that 12% of over 270,000 OFA tested Labradors are “dysplastic”. Once each of the radiologists classifies the hips into one of the 7 phenotypes above, the final hip grade is decided by a consensus of the 3 independent outside evaluations. Examples would be: Two radiologists reported excellent, one good--the final grade would be excellent One radiologist reported excellent, one good, one fair--the final grade would be good One radiologist reported fair, two radiologists reported mild--the final grade would be mild Three Radiologists, all independent and randomly selected to view a particular x-ray, can all see the same X-ray and have different opinions. Re-send the x-ray, and a different set of three radiologists may come to the same or a completely different consensus. The process is far too subjective. Phenotypic Evaluation Is Just the Starting Point 12 - 14% of over 270,000 selectively bred Labradors are rated as "dysplastic"; dysplastic hips are rated as Mild, Moderate, or Severe. (Note that at the time of this paper, OFA did not breakdown the percentage among these ratings on the Breed Trends Report). A little information before we dig into this! Genotype/unseen. Most health testing done by breeders today is genetic (via swabs of DNA). Phenotype/seen. Hips and Elbows are phenotypic testing based only on what is visible at the time of testing. Selectively Bred: Dogs bred from parents who have been certified with "normal" hips and elbows. After more than 60 years (30 generations on a dog's pedigree) of selectively breeding OFA certified dogs Dysplasia has not been eliminated as promised if we removed even "fair" and "borderline" dogs from our breeding programs. 12 - 14% of over 270,000 selectively bred Labradors are rated as "dysplastic"; Hips are rated as Mild, Moderate, or Severe. (Note that at the time of this paper, OFA did not breakdown the percentage among these ratings on the Breed Trends Report). 19% of selectively bred Labradors are rated as "Excellent" 67% of selectively bred Labradors tested by the OFA are "GOOD" "FAIR" or "BORDERLINE" (Again, note that at the time of this paper, OFA did not breakdown the percentages among these ratings. One must wonder if it because the normal state of a two year old Labradors hips is actually "borderline".) Even dogs certified as "Excellent" at two years of age may STILL develop late onset dysplasia. "Pet population" Definition: The pet population consists of those dogs not selected for a breeding program who are never phenotypically evaluated for dysplasia and those who are due to lameness whose results will never be sent to the OFA. The Pet Population is grossly under represented in the OFA Database where 12%- 14% of selectively bred Labradors are still rated with varying degrees of dysplasia. OFA TRENDS REPORT FOR LABRADOR RETRIEVERS A bit more: The Founder of the OFA, the man who initially believed that phenotypic testing of breeding dogs would eliminate dysplasia resigned when he realized that this was not happening. Regardless, the OFA continues to set the criteria for choosing our breeding dogs. Originally, the OFA certified hips at 18 months but when selectively bred dogs were still being diagnosed with dysplasia, they changed certification age to two years. The next step was to divide the "Normal" results into three categories in an attempt to show improvement beyond what Breeders were promised. Continually moving the goalpost has not eliminated dysplasia because - as studies are proving - it is not "inherited" from parent to child as much as it is a genetic predisposition shared by all medium and large breeds based upon structural and temperamental TRAITS of the breeds themselves. Breeders, despite doing all they were asked to do, are still liable for offspring that were crippled by the disorder despite the fact that we only control the environment for the first 8 weeks of a puppy's lifetime. Controlling the Environmental factors that may trigger dysplasia Environmental studies show that there is a correlation to the surface during the first 8 weeks of a puppy's life and future hip and elbow health. In fact, it does appear that the first THREE months of life have a greater impact on future joint health than any other factor. This means that the first four weeks your puppy is in YOUR home is as important as the phenotypic evaluation for parents, grands, and greats and the first eight weeks in the Breeder's home. Breeders - Birth to Eight Weeks Neonatal and Transitional Periods (birth to four weeks) - Provide a proper surface for traction in the Whelping Box and the Transitional Pen - We use Lambs Wool pads; these not only keep the puppies warm and dry but also give them the traction needed to nurse properly and to learn to walk from birth to 3 weeks; an indoor outdoor carpet is added to the transitional pen. Breeders - Birth to Eight Weeks Socialization Period (5 - 8 weeks) Socialization Pen - provide a surface for traction (see above). Provide the proper nutrition by feeding the Dam and litter a high quality food Avoid stairs. We use a ramp for the litters to access the outdoor kennel. Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Crate Train Your Puppy - The incidence of dysplasia is lower for those puppies who had crate time scheduled into their day until at least 12 months of age. These regular "forced rest periods" allow for the healing of injuries to the muscles, soft tissue and tendons. Whether human or animal, sleep provides healing. Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Carpeting is the BEST flooring surface for a growing Labrador. Labradors rarely move slowly from place to place. Running around furniture and slipping and sliding through doorways are hard on the joints . If a Labrador puppy lives in a home with uncarpeted rooms, area rugs should be used wherever possible in the home. Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Limit All Jumping - Do not allow the puppy to jump up on things like your window sill; the force of their momentum can damage elbows if done repeatedly. No jumping off of beds, couches, chair or in and out of vehicles. Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Avoid Stairs Until AFTER 12 weeks of age/ train to walk up and down afterwards - While all dogs should be taught to go up and down stairs, especially those who are too large to carry when adult, puppies under the age of twelve weeks should NOT be allowed to go up and down stairs. After that, they should be taught to walk and not run up and down them. Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Provide proper nutrition - Critical to a managing the growth rate of a Labrador puppy - numerous studies have revealed that a proper calcium to phosphorus ratio is needed and that over supplementation of multi-vitamins to a puppy eating a well balanced commercial dog food can cause more harm than good. 27 - 30% Protein and a Calcium to Phosphorus Ratio of 1:1 is recommended. Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Monitor Weight Gain - Labrador puppies should weigh approximately 2 lbs per week of life until 8 months of age. Labradors are known as the "always hungry" breed and have been known to gorge themselves when allowed to free feed, so understanding what your puppy should weigh during the rapid growth period is of vital importance. Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Monitor Body Condition Each puppy is an individual. The correct body condition for a growing Labrador is pretty simple to maintain. You want to always be able to "see a waist and feel the ribs with a slight bit of pressure". Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Monitor Exercise - Understand the limited and correct physical activity at each stage of development - 5 minutes of forced exercise per month of life. Forced exercise includes but is not limited to walking on lead, retrieves / fetch, and rough and tumble play with older dogs. (Free play is fine as the puppy is controlling its own stops and turns.) Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Limit Retrieving . Daily retrieving with a dog under the age of two years old INCREASES the probability of changes to the hip and elbow joints AND the knees. Throw the object and let it hit the ground before releasing your puppy to retrieve; this stops them from jumping to catch the object in mid-air. Limit the number of retrieves to an age appropriate amount (similar to the 5 minutes per month of life rule. 2 month old = 2 retrieves then rest etc.) Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Balance Physical and MENTAL Exercise . Mental exercise is as tiring to your puppy as physical. A high energy puppy should be given mental activities rather than increasing the physical. Feed Cubes, Scent Games Obedience training Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) Delay Sexually Altering Your Puppy - Early Spaying/Neutering has been proven to be a factor in the hip health of all breeds. Despite this, many Vets are still recommending that puppies be sexually altered between 4 and 6 months of age. Most Breeders today are recommending that females be spayed after their first heat plus 3 months (to lower the risk of bleeding) and males should be neutered after the age of 18 months and preferably after the age of 24 months. Owners (8 weeks to 24 months) You can still let your puppy be a puppy; just be aware that the traits of your Labrador Puppy are contributing to dyplasia and other joint issues. 70% of what causes these issues CAN be controlled by the Breeder's choices and actions pre-birth - eight weeks and by yours once you bring home your puppy. Scoring radiographs for canine Hip Dysplasia Estimated heritability of an average of 30% A number of environmental factors can affect the incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs "Hip dysplasia (HD) in dogs is affected to a larger degree than previously believed by the environment in which puppies grow up. It is particularly during the period from birth to three months that various environmental factors appear to influence the development of this disease. During the puppy stage, preventive measures can therefore be recommended with a view to giving dogs disposed to the condition a better quality of life. Dogs are not born with HD, but genetically disposed puppies can develop varying degrees of HD.” UPDATED (2023) OFA rankings of breeds Labrador Retriever ranked 113th in Breeds with dysplasia ALL DATA: Tests 304,077 (previous 270,00); 87.3% Rated Normal (Excellent, Good, Fair)/previously only reported "Excellent" status at 19%); 11.6% Dysplastic (Severe, Moderate, Mild/previously 12 -14%) remains the most tested breed in the database. Dog Food Standards by the AAFCO "If your growing puppy is a larger (or immense) breed such as a Great Dane or Newfoundland, and you’re searching for a product in that “Growth and Reproductive” stage, make sure the food has a statement asserting that it meets the nutritional needs of “large-size dogs (70 lbs or more as an adult dog).” The easiest way to improve hips and elbows Most of the estimates of heritability of hip dysplasia score in dogs are in the range of 0.2-0.3, which means that 20-30% of the variation you see among dogs in hip scores is accounted for by genetics - and it also means that 70-80% of the variation is from environmental causes, many of which breeders and owners can control. Exercise, and Weight as Risk Factors in Hip Dysplasia and Elbow Arthrosis in Labrador Retrievers Hip dysplasia (HD) and elbow arthrosis (EA) are, despite extensive breeding programs, still causing problems in many dog breeds such as the Labrador Retriever. Dog Works Fitness: The #1 and #2 common injury factors for puppies - it's not just about hips and elbows Neutering Dogs: Effects on Joint Disorders and Cancers in Golden Retrievers "In contrast to European countries, the overwhelming majority of dogs in the U.S. are neutered (including spaying), usually done before one year of age. Given the importance of gonadal hormones in growth and development, this cultural contrast invites an analysis of the multiple organ systems that may be adversely affected by neutering. " The 10 most important things to know about canine hip dysplasia Although there is a genetic influence on hip dysplasia, the heritability of the trait is rather low. Many studies have shown that genetic variation accounts for only a modest fraction of the variation in hip scores, usually 15-40%. (Breed dependent which accounts for the range) Evaluation of risk factors for degenerative joint disease associated with hip dysplasia in German Shepherd Dogs, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, and Rottweilers " However, conformational characteristics and environmental factors such as diet and exercise are thought to have profound effects on the phenotypic expression of DJD in individuals genotypically predisposed to hip dysplasia." Nutritional Requirements for Large and Giant Breeds "Calcium and phosphorus work together, and a proper calcium-to-phosphorus ratio is essential for healthy bones and joints. The calcium: phosphorus ratios in your pup’s diet should be between 1.1:1 and 1.3:1." Sit Stay: Environmental Factors Can Affect the Incidence of Hip Dysplasia It is particularly during the period from birth to three months that various environmental factors appear to influence the development of this disease. During the puppy stage, preventive measures can therefore be recommended with a view to giving dogs disposed to the condition a better quality of life." Next: Elbow Dysplasia
- Our Boys
Our Pack! The Labradors We Share Our Life With ! Kindly, outgoing, eager to please and non-aggressive True Labrador Retriever temperament is as much a hallmark of the breed as the "otter" tail. Labrador Breed Standard Quail Meadow's Dunroamin' at Aisling English/Show Champion Lines Grandquest, Ridge View, Lubberline, Call Name: "Roamin" Phenotype: Yellow Genotype: eeBB (no hidden Chocolate {b}) Roamin's Pedigree Quail Meadows General Jackson (at Aisling) English/Show Champion Lines WILCARE, BELLEQUEST, LUBBERLINE, GRANDQUEST Call Name: Jackson Phenotype: Chocolate Genotype: bbEE (no hidden yellow) Jackson's Pedigree Aisling's Cocoa Latte Dam: Kona (Retired) Sire: Little Cain (Retired) English/Show Champion Lines Willcare, Chambray, Weikenlin, Venetian Call Name Latte English/Bench Plus Field Lines for a more traditional build Phenotype: Chocolate Genotype: bbEE (no hidden Yellow) Latte's Pedigree Aila-Bringer of Light to Aisling Sire: Ashe XVI Labroland International Champions/Windup International Champions/Sureshot/Razzle Dazzle Dam: Winter IG Labs Danfer Labs/Chablais/Ranbourne/Sandylands Phenotype: Yellow Genotype: B*ee Aila's Pedigree Introducing Ceilidh (Kaylee) Von Haus CK&B Labradors Maona at Aisling CEILIDH = GATHERING OR PARTY! International Show Lines Sire: Rosslyn's Vogue Herbu Zadora Hoffmann's, Saddlehill, Dickendall, Lobuff, Zinfindel, Hyspire Dam: Formosa Herbu Zadora Mambrinos, Kimvalley, Jayncourt, Sandylands, Langshott, Phenotype: Black Genotype: B*E* Ceilidh begins her health testing in the new year (2026) and if cleared, will have puppies for sale in late Fall 2025. Ceilidh's Pedigree Introducing Harley Aisling's Blackberry Moonshine International Show Lines Sire: Sampson's Mighty MacArthur at Quail Meadow Greenstone, Epoch, Quail Chase, Banners, Willcare, Simmerdown, Stoneyknoll Dam: Aisling's Jette Black to the Future (Retired) Grandquest, Ridge View, Lubberline, Phenotype: Black Genotype: B*E* Harley will have puppies for sale in 2026 Our Retired Dogs Day after day, the whole day through -- Wherever my road inclined -- Four-feet said, "I am coming with you!" And trotted along behind. Rudyard Kipling Aisling's Jette Black to the Future Terremere's Raising a Little Cain at Aisling Passport's Breagha Lass at Aisling Tru-Heart's More Organized Chaos at Aisling Terremere's Dream A Little Dream At Aisling Next: Socialization~A Must! Tru-Heart's Kona of the Storm at Aisling
- Weaning and Feeding
Weaning & Feeding For the new puppy parent or new breeder...... Weaning - The process of transitioning a puppy from a milk based diet to a dry food for puppies 21 days - A shallow pan of water to test that the lapping instinct is intact. In between - 1 dish of formula daily if needed 28 days(?) - Mush - ground puppy food with a formula Weaning and Feeding For New Breeders Part of being a Breeding is constantly researching (listening to other breeders/reading up on new scientific studies) to determine what is best for the long term health and growth of our puppies. As new Breeders, we follow the advise of our mentors or do it the way it has always been done. But, nothing stays the same forever, we no longer send puppies home at 6 weeks and need therefore to being weaning at 21 days. Since they are staying with us longer because of new scientific data, maybe we should take another look at when to begin weaning as well. It seemed to me, with the litters I over-saw in 2017, to make sense that if the litter was ready to be litter box trained on day 21 they were ready to be weaned as well. But with each new litter, I began to realize that my Dams were not starting the weaning process on day 21. Watching them showed me two important things: Shorter feeding times do not indicate the Dam is ready to wean Supply and demand is well established Pups are proficient at getting what they need The Dam spending less time caring for the pups does not indicate she is ready to wean. Pups are able to regulate their own body temp and go potty on their own The Dam is ready to rejoin the pack knowing that pups are less needy The Dam is ready to wean when she regurgitates her last meal for the pups to eat. I know, it sounds disgusting, but this is what happens in the wild and female dogs, for the most part, mother on pure instinct and instinct tells them when it is time to wean. So, if the Dam isn't regurgitating for her litter on day 21, it seems to me that we are starting the weaning process too early and if we are, we should be asking ourselves whether we are contributing to the potential of individual puppies in our litters developing food allergies later in life? When to introduce Mush to a litter At 21 days, the pups are able to do their business on their own so don't need their Dam to stimulate which means the Dam will begin to rejoin her pack leaving the pups for longer and longer periods. She will return to the pups to allow nursing; when the pups begin to suckle, the milk is immediately let down and they are very proficient at drinking and filling up very quickly. The Dam rarely stays in the box for more than 10 minutes where before, she was in for much longer. It appears that she is "done" with them and ready to wean them, but if you watch more closely, many times, that isn't the case because in another three hours, she will be asking to go back in with the litter for another feed. Take careful note of how over the next week or so, she begin to spread out those feeding times to first four hours and then longer. Watch her head at one of those feedings because it will be low to the ground - you might even think it is because she is sad and in pain - but you will see her quietly regurgitate her food and begin to eat it. The first time, one puppy might notice and leave the teat to eat alongside her, but often, it is the next day before that happens. Wait a few days and most of the litter will leave the teat and eat along side their Mom. THIS is the signal that she is ready to wean them and this is the signal I personally feel we need to be waiting to see before introducing mush. This could begin on day 21 or, as I see in most of my litters, it may happen on day 27 or 28. Weaning isn't just about getting the litter to stop nursing off of their Dam; it is about transitioning them from a natural milk based diet to a dog food diet. It is also about their digestive tract learning to process a different diet and this may be the most important reason to delay weaning. As a moderator on a Breeding Help board, I have seen that many breeders rush to feed the litter 4 meals a day sometimes all in one day and sometimes over the first four days. Since the puppies digestive tracts are still developing, this always seemed wrong to me. We introduced a shallow dish of water at 21 days, a shallow dish of formula at 22 days and their first bowl of mush on the 23rd day (on or about - it depends upon the litter). A new meal was then introduced every 3 days afterwards until they were getting 4 meals. That question of whether I was rushing was always niggling at the back of my mind as I watched my girls delay that regurgitation of a meal until at least a week later. By the fourth year of breeding, I began to listen to my gut and delay introducing mush until I had seen the Dam regurgitate a meal for them and the puppies showing interest in eating with her. Now, there are reasons why supplementing what a litter is getting naturally from their Dam on day 21 might be the best decision (a puppy falling behind or a huge litter that is wearing down the Dam); but even then, I have come to believe that supplementing with a shallow dish of formula/milk replacer might be better for the litter in the long run than introducing mush too early. Watching to see if the difference to that puppy or to the Dam's condition is enough before adding another meal is most likely the best course to follow. Our new protocol beginning with the Bree x Cain 2021 litter: Day 21 - IF needed, one meal per day of formula/milk replacer Day 28 - One meal per day of mush IF the Dam has regurgitated Day 34 - Two meals Day 39 - Three meals plus free feeding (see below) This protocol is of course not set in stone and has been adjusted according to the individual Dam's behavior. Kona typically was done nursing by 6 weeks while Dreama didn't finish until 7 weeks and still allowed what we learned was "comfort suckling" for a minute or two all the way until the puppies were carried out the gate to their new lives. Bree delays weaning until day 26 or 27 and Latte and Jette are regurgitating at about day 30. Best practice is letting your Dam show you when they instinctively sense that the litter is ready to move to eating dry food. Free-Feeding Our Aisling Litters Why do we free-feed our litters when we DO NOT recommend free feeding once the puppies leave us? (Labs for the most part should never be free fed!) Most Labrador puppies devour their dish of food and while in the litter, this is no different. There are been many dishes of mush that went to the ground due to the mad rush of a litter to be first to the bowl and far too many times I saw a puppy choke due to eating too fast. I soon realized that they were "fighting" over the food; fast eaters were getting most of the meal. This was "training" the puppies to eat even faster to ensure they got enough to be full. Separating them by slow and fast eaters or large and smaller puppies helped some but not enough. Giving each puppy their own bowl didn't slow them down either. After watching this through several litters, I ordered some flat-backed buckets that hang on the panels of the ex-pen and once the puppies were eating dry food and drinking water, I filled those buckets with dry food. While they were eating from their dishes, I placed the buckets in the pen. This meant that they investigated the buckets but didn't gorge or fight to get to them because they were already filled up from their meal (which of course, they ate far too fast, pushing and shoving their way to the dishes). As the rest of the day went by, I saw individual puppies stroll over to a bucket and eat slowly from it. Just a bite or two usually. And when I brought them their next meal in a dish? No rushing at all. Most took the time to get a cuddle and a pat from me, some continued to play for a bit or nap! While that was encouraging, the best part was that over the next week, those lighter puppies began to put on weight more steadily and by the 8 week puppy weigh in, they were nearly uniform in weight. And when they all went to their new homes? I didn't get so many emails and texts and phone calls about how the puppies devoured in two seconds anything that was put in front of them asking me what they could do to slow them down! From 7 - 8 weeks of age, we remove the food filled buckets at night to get them used to going through the night without being able to nibble on something and feed them four times each day rather than three. Feeding for Owners Our " Puppy Care " page has quite a bit of information regarding feeding your Labrador Puppy. And for those who are bringing home an Aisling puppy, we provide even more detail in our pdf's which are emailed to you before your puppy comes home. Like weaning, our ever-growing knowledge and our experience in raising our own Labrador puppies evolves our protocols. While in the past, we recommended feeding your puppy THREE times a day, there is a growing body of data that indicates feeding FOUR times a day through at least 20 weeks of age is far better. The rapid growth and high energy level of puppies means they burn calories at a high rate. Spreading their nutrition over four meals for longer than 8 weeks appears to help regulate their growth patterns and protect the density of their bones. For more information, please visit the Puppy Care page Next: Responsible Breeding
- Available Older Dogs
Available Older Dogs Occasionally, we may have an older puppy or dog available. An owner's circumstances may have changed requiring a puppy or older dog be re-homed or returned to us here at Aisling. If you are interested in being placed on a waiting list; please fill out the contact form found below. Thank you. A special thanks to all of those who provided a home for the 7 puppies in our "foster litter" in 2023. We purchased this litter from their breeder when a change in life circumstances made it impossible for their breeder to continue to socialize, train and find responsible homes for the puppies. The litter was out of a son of our Roamin' and we wanted to ensure they remained out of puppy mills and out of the hands of inexperienced breeders. Our Aisling Families responded by helping us find those puppies the best homes possible and new members of our family were added. Our unending gratitude goes out to all who helped us find 7 11-week old puppies homes in 10 days! There are no older dogs currently available. Older Dogs First name Last name Email Phone Message Submit
- Videos
From "Good Mornings" in the Gazebo to afternoons in the yard or paddock, we make lots of videos 'round Aisling! Although Instagram and Facebook are updated more frequently than ou r website , a few of our most popular videos are shared here! Aisling Labradors Videos Please follow us on Instagram & Facebook Reels I've been working on converting old footage to Reels for the past few months preparing for using that medium for litter movies going forward. It's been a great deal of fun watching the older movies and making a few new ones as my understanding of this new form of sharing has grown. Life 'Round Aisling Between litters, we take every opportunity to take each Labrador out for some one on one attention. Whether it's to our favorite Pub for some music and fellowship; to Lowes or Home Depot to buy for the unending list of things we need for this old farmhouse, or to the beach. This was Roamin's first time at the beach; he loved it as should a Labrador! "Watch Them Grow" We post photos almost daily and try for a video at least every two weeks for each of our litters. This allows our Aisling Families to see their progress from birth to going home day! More Organized Chaos at Aisling and Raising A Little Cain Learning through play One of our first litters here at Aisling, this video shows the litter during their Health Certification where they receive their first round of vaccinations, and their microchips. Many folks ask us if the girls enjoy being Mothers, I think this video answers that question! Dreama X Raising Cain Puppy Paddock While the puppies play in the paddock, outside of it our pack is having their own good time (see the end of the video!). Much has changed over the years, there is now a screened pool where the pump house used to be but there are still plenty of trees for these energetic labs to race around on a daily basis. This was Dreama's last litter (with Roamin') before her retirement and has been our most popular video on Facebook. Background Music is from Seven Nations An Oldie But A Goodie A Kona x Shadybry's Raising Cain at Terremere Litter. Again, much has changed over the years; puppies now play in a much larger paddock (seen in the previous video). Puppy Pick Out Day PUPPY PICK OUT DAYS MAKE LASTING MEMORIES FOR OUR AISLING FAMILIES AND FOR US! We schedule Puppy Pick Out days around the 5 - 6 week birthday of each litter. Appointments are scheduled according to when a reservation is received but we guide every family's choice to ensure that the puppy finds the right family for its temperament and training requirements. HOME
- Pupdates from our Aisling Families | Aisling Labradors of NE Florida | near St. Augustine and the city of Jacksonville
Pupdates from our Aisling Families
- Puppy Care
Puppy Care - First Things First Why is crate training good for dogs? Are crate trained dogs happy? Why does having a schedule provide structure for your puppy or dog? How important is play in learning? How much do you feed a labrador puppy? Read on to see our recommendations.... Crate Training ~ We recommend that prior to bringing your puppy home, you acquire an 42" Crate that will serve your puppy through all life stages. Crates come with a divider that allows you to limit the available space for the puppy until such time as they require the entire crate for comfort. Crate training provides safety and security for puppy during the "rapid growth" period (from 8 weeks until approximately 9 months) it aids in "house breaking" the puppy as most will not soil their "den" and it allows for the confinement of the dog after spaying, neutering, or recovery from illness or injury. Labrador's are "piranha puppies" - the crate offers a safe place will limit the chance that shoes, books and other items will be destroyed by puppy teeth And it protects your puppy from any older dogs you may have in your home; from over-stimulating attention that might be given to the puppy by your children or visitors to your home; and finally, it is a sure way to protect them from ingesting things that are dangerous or that may require surgery to remove. Raising a puppy is very similar to raising a toddler; silence is not always golden and nap-time is looked forward to by the parents! Feeding and Weight The rapid rate of growth plus the high energy levels of most Labrador Puppies means that they are burning off calories at a near constant rate. Feed three - four times per day; multiple small meals act like a time-release capsule, ensuring that their energy is fed by the calories they take in each day with no slumps. Weight: Your puppy should weigh 2 pounds per week of life on average until nearly reaching their adult weight. Don't over-feed: 8 week old puppies need about 1440 Kcal per day. You can find the kcal per cup on the bag of food (if not, give the company a call). Divide however many cups equal this amount over the number of meals you have decided to feed. If your puppy seems to be growing too fast, immediately lessen the daily caloric intake by switching to an ALL LIFE STAGES food - NOT an adult food! And remember that TREATS count towards their daily calorie limits. If you must use "high value treats" in your training, give them less of their kibble during meals. Our Puppies weigh between 65 lb. and 85 lb. at about 12 months of age. This is your goal for your own Aisling Puppy. A Lab that weighs 100 lbs is very likely over-weight - a heavy Lab is NOT a bragging point and in fact, may contribute to join issues. At 24 months, your Lab may weigh closer to 100 lbs but this will depend upon not only muscles but bones of the mature Labrador. Use a Body Condition Chart to determine if 100 plus lbs is a good weight for YOUR mature dog. Most Vets will allow you to stop in and weigh your puppy during the rapid growth period. In the beginning you can use your own scale by weighing yourself alone, then the puppy and doing the math to see how much your puppy weighs. Protect Hips & Elbows~ 5 Minute Rule: Limit forced exercise (leashed walking, retrieving etc.) to 5 minutes per month of age. (8 week old - 10 minutes/12 week old -15 minutes and so on. Don't rush the "trick" training either; it is much more important that your puppy learn the house rules the first month home than it is that they learn to roll-over or shake paws. Monitor Free Play~ Free play is important and allows the dog to adjust its own turns and stops safely. Swimming is a great energy burner. Labradors have a very high pain tolerance and love to have fun so regulating their exercise will be up to you! They WILL continue playing even after an injury unless it is very severe. Setting a schedule ~ Use the natural sleep wake play routine to set the schedule. Young puppies sleep 18 - 20 hours a day, make sure it is done in the crate and house training is going to be so much easier. Sleep then Wake/Potty, Eat/Potty, Play/Potty and Repeat - Set your schedule according to that already ingrained schedule. Out of the crate - Outside for potty on demand (no play until potty is done/praise and say "free"), Outside or inside play for 20 - 30 minutes and (after potty if it was inside play) pop into the crate with a Kong because he is going to be ready to go sleep. As the days go by, work towards a schedule like this: 10 a.m. - Noon = Crate Nap 2 p.m. - 4 p.m. = Crate Nap. These forced rest periods will go a long way to avoid over-stimulating your young puppy and provide you with breaks for your own sanity! At about six - seven months, move to a 1 p.m. - 3 p.m. = Crate Rest schedule which we continue until 18 months to 2 years of age depending upon the energy level and reliability of the individual dog to behave. Continue to crate at night until at least 12 months. A Safe Environment~ In the context of raising a puppy, environment consists of everything that is not genetic. Exercise and Nutrition are included under the term "environment". Dysplasia is 30% a genetic predisposition and 70% the environment provided from birth to eight weeks by the Breeder and from 8 weeks to 12 months by the new family. Flooring: We highly recommend you place secure area rugs in rooms your puppy will be walking, running and playing in. TEACH them to stay "on the carpet" from DAY ONE. The slipping and sliding as a puppy runs through the home, making sharp turns as they go through a doorway can cause repetitive trauma to their growing joints. DON'T overdo leash training with lots of sits and turns during the early months. Never push on your puppy's hips to force a sit. Exercise: Are you a jogger? If so, when your puppy reaches maturity (18 months - 2 years), he or she will be a wonderful partner on those jogs...but not until then. Forced running on hard surfaces, and even grassy runs, are very damaging to a young dogs joints. Some Vets STILL recommend jogging with a Labrador under the age of two who is high energy - DO NOT LISTEN to that advice. Deal with excess energy with feed cubes, puzzle feeders and training sessions Mental exercise is as exhausting to a young puppy as physical exercise. No Stairs until 12 Weeks! Carry your puppy up and down staircases until after 12 weeks; then progress to walking them up and down while on a short leash to control their speed. Teach your dog to WALK up stairs and not to run or jump down them; if they begin to run up or down when they reach adolescence (8 months or so), go back to the leash until they are in the habit of walking the staircase in both directions. Restrict the use of stairs to only when it is necessary i.e. down in the morning and up for bedtime. We have a crate on each floor for our puppies. Retrieving~ Introduce this early but limit the number of times you request a retrieval and the distance required for it to what is appropriate for the age and development of your puppy. There are some studies that show that dogs that retrieve every day are more prone to dysplasia....so limit this until they are at least 12 months old. ROLL a ball rather than throwing it; save the frisbee until they are two years old; teach them to retrieve a thrown stick or bumper AFTER it hits the ground by training to a release command - all of this helps to protect your puppy's growing bones and muscles AND allows it to still have fun! Learning thru play~Toys I mentioned earlier that Labradors are piranha puppies! Having a wide variety of toys available (along with crate training) will go a long way to helping you stay sane! Anything KONG. Just make sure it is for "the strong chewer" Nylabones Pull Toys Balls of all sizes Frozen Ropes. These help with teething pain. Ice Cubes. They also help with teething pain. An old milk carton. Just remove the cap and ring. Try to have as many textures as possible available for your puppy. You can substitute a nyabone when your puppy is chewing on a hard surface and a softer toy when they are chewing on your throw. For more ideas, check out our New Puppy Shopping List. Teach House Rules FIRST House Rules include but are not limited to the following: Not being allowed on the furniture No running from room to room No jumping up at feeding time "Just Be" - Encourage puppy to just be beside you rather than demanding attention Play Dates ~ Many people schedule play dates or dog park visits into their week to help socialize their dog. Again, this is very good but must be done with caution. Try to match the age of the dogs your puppy will be playing with; research shows that there is much less damage to the joints, tendons and muscles when growing puppies play with others at or near the same age. Also, evaluate the play style of the dogs involved; some dogs play much more aggressively, mouth grabbing legs or deliberately taking the feet out from under their playmate. This need for caution is not permanent....but is necessary to give your puppy every advantage in attaining maturity without longterm physical damage. Avoid being a weekend warrior! If you work full time and your dog spends 40 - 50 hours a week alone or crated with about an hour each evening devoted to exercise, don't exercise it for several hours on Saturday and Sunday. Remember the "5 Minute Rule". A consistent schedule of balanced exercise and activity is best for the growing Labrador. Of course, this doesn't mean that you can't take them to the beach on Saturday (take plenty of fresh water and limit the beach trip to about two hours) or on a hike on Sunday. It just means that you need to be careful not to overdo the activity. If they get an hour a day Monday - Friday, then they should have only a hour or two a day of heavy exercise on Saturday and Sunday until they are 2 years old. Consider a RAMP~ Jumping in and out of your truck may cause repetitive trauma to the knees and elbows. Along these same lines, do NOT allow your puppy to jump off beds, couches and chairs. Their joints cannot take repeated trauma without some damage occurring during their growth period. Hip and Elbow Dysplasia are not the only issues that this type of behavior can lead to; OCD is another concern. All large breed dogs, and some medium breeds, are susceptible to these conditions through repeated trauma throughout the rapid growth period and until maturity. Remember, healthy joints and bones are 30% genetic predisposition and 70% the environment you are providing them. Next: Shopping List
- Spaying/Neutering
Spaying and Neutering "Among male and female dogs with early-age gonadectomy, hip dysplasia, noise phobias, and sexual behaviors were increased...." C. Victor Spain DVM, PhD, Janet M. Scarlett DVM, PhD, and Katherine A. Houpt VMD, PhD, DACVB Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association Dogs gonadectomized at ≤ 6 months of age had significantly increased odds of developing a behavioral disorder. The younger the age at gonadectomy, the earlier the mean age at diagnosis of mast cell cancer, cancers other than mast cell, hemangiosarcoma, lymphoma, all cancers combined, a behavioral disorder, or fear of storms. Frontiers in Veterinary Science In previous studies on the Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever and German Shepherd Dog, neutering before a year of age was associated with increased risks of one or more joint disorders, 2–4 times that of intact dogs. The increase was particularly seen with dogs neutered by 6 months of age. Rachel Eddleman, DVM Waiting until your dog is older decreases the likelihood of female urinary incontinence, orthopedic problems including cranial cruciate ligament tears, and certain cancers. Cardiac Tumors occurred with similar frequency in males and females, but the relative risk for spayed females was >4 times that for intact females. For HSA, spayed females had >5 times greater relative risk than did intact females. The risk for castrated males was slightly greater than that for intact males, which had 2.4 times the relative risk of intact females. Thus, neutering appeared to increase the risk of cardiac tumor in both sexes. Intact females were least likely to develop a cardiac tumor, whereas spayed females were most likely to develop a tumor. Twelve breeds had greater than average risk of developing a cardiac tumor, whereas 17 had lower risk. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association February 1, 2014, Vol. 244, No. 3, Pages 309-319 J R Slauterbeck 1, K Pankratz, K T Xu, S C Bozeman, D M Hardy Females that had ovariohysterectomy and males that had orchiectomy had a significantly higher prevalence of anterior cruciate ligament rupture than the sexually intact dogs. Larger dogs had an increased prevalence of anterior cruciate ligament injury compared with smaller or medium-sized dogs, with the increased rupture rates for sterilized animals holding across breeds and sizes. Sterilization of either gender increased the prevalence of anterior cruciate ligament injury, suggesting a potential effect of gonadal gender on prevalence of injury of this ligament. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association C. Victor Spain DVM, PhD, Janet M. Scarlett DVM, PhD, and Katherine A. Houpt VMD, PhD, DACVB Results—Among female dogs, early-age gonadectomy was associated with increased rate of cystitis and decreasing age at gonadectomy was associated with increased rate of urinary incontinence. Among male and female dogs with early-age gonadectomy, hip dysplasia, noise phobias, and sexual behaviors were increased.... AVMA American Veterinary Medical Association M Christine Zink 1, Parvene Farhoody, Samra E Elser, Lynda D Ruffini, Tom A Gibbons, Randall H Rieger Results— Females gonadectomized at ≤ 12 months of age and males and females gonadectomized at > 12 months of age had significantly increased odds of developing hemangiosarcoma, compared with the odds for sexually intact dogs. s. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association HIP AND ELBOW WARRANTY In order for our Hip and Elbow Warranty to remain in effect, we require that: Males be neutered no earlier than 18 months and preferably at 24 months. Females be spayed AFTER 12 months of age and 3 months AFTER their heat cycle (to reduce risk of bleeding during surgery). While ultimately the choice is yours when to spay or neuter your puppy, unless it is to save t he life of an Aisling Puppy (i.e. Pyom etra in a female or testicular torsion or other disorder in a male), alteration earlier than the recommended ages will void the Hip and Elbow Warranty offered by Aisling Labradors due to the increased risk of joint disorders. While we support spay and neuter AFTER a dog has sexually matured, we feel that Dog Owners deserve to know the risks that come with that decision. Next: Hip Dysplasia
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- Genetics of Color
The Genetics of Color AKC and Parent Club Breed Standard: The Labrador Retriever coat colors are black, yellow and chocolate. Any other color or a combination of colors is a disqualification. White hairs from aging or scarring are not to be misinterpreted as brindling. Black - Blacks are all black. A small white area on the chest is permissible This comes from the ancestor of the Labrador Retriever, the St. Johns Water Dog. The earliest photo of a Labrador Retriever is of "Nell" taken in 1899 (see "Know Your Breed"). You will also sometimes see white spots on the feet; this is found in the descendants of English Dual Champion Banchory Bolo (1915 – 1927) and are called "bolo marks". Yellow - Yellows may range in color from fox-red to light cream, with variations in shading on the ears, back, and underparts of the dog. There is no such thing as a "White" Labrador; it is a Yellow Lab with a white or cream colored coat; likewise, there is no such thing as a "Fox Red" Labrador; it is a Yellow Lab with a reddish coat. A Yellow Lab with a dark chocolate nose is actually genetically a Chocolate dog with a yellow coat. Chocolate - Chocolates can vary in shade from light to dark chocolate; a white "ring" around the tail is common and typically falls out with the puppy coat. Chocolate with brindle or tan markings is a disqualification. Chocolates have "chocolate" noses (formerly called Liver), eye rims and pads. Disqualifications from the Breed Standard cannot be "shown" in Conformation Competitions A black with brindle markings or a black with tan markings is a disqualification. (A small white spot on the chest is permissible.) Eye rims without pigment. A thoroughlyy pink nose or one lacking in any pigment. (Traditionally called a "Dudley".) Any other color or a combination of colors other than black, yellow or chocolate as described in the Standard. Any other color or a combination of colors other than black, yellow or chocolate as described in the Standard. It is important to note that brindling, tan points, white blazes on the chest or on the rear of the feet and mosaics are still Pure Blooded Labrador retrievers. Before we were able to understand the genetics of color, it was said that these were the product of “miss-mates” or accidental breedings with a dog other than a Labrador. Now we know that that is not the reality. As time goes on, we are able to genetically test for more of the color genes. Note: Disqualified dogs (from Breed Competitions) are still Purebred Labradors and still make wonderful companions, however, breeders should not be purposefully breeding to produce the off-standard traits. Predicting a Litter's Colors I am often asked how we know the colors of the puppies in any given litter. The short answer is that we genetically test most of our Labradors to see what colors they may carry. But usually, there are a few follow up questions. This page hopefully helps to answer those follow ups..... Let's begin with the color of the nose, eye rims and pads of the feet. A Black or Yellow Lab with black Nose, eye rims and pads carries a visible "B" gene and second "hidden" copy of that gene. The hidden copy may be either "B" or "b". Phenotype is what we see and genotype is what we don't see. Each Labrador has their visible color and each has their hidden color or colors. A Black or Yellow Labrador carries the dominant "B" inherited from one of the parents. The second copy of B is hidden. It may be either the dominant "B" or the recessive "b". This B gene determines the color of the Labradors nose, pads and eye rims. "BB" will look the same as "Bb" in this Labrador, but the Labrador who carries "Bb" instead of "BB" is hiding the color Chocolate. If the Labrador who carries "Bb" is mated to another Labrador who carries "BB", all the puppies will have black noses, pads and eye rims. BUT, if the Labrador is mated to another "Bb", some of the puppies will have a chocolate nose, pads and eye rims. This is because some of the puppies will get a "B" from each parent; some will get "B" from one and a "b" from the other while others will get a "b" from both parents - these ("bb") are the ones who will have chocolate noses, pads and eye rims. The "E" gene determines the coat color of the Labrador. E will express black as long as the dog carries a dominant B. Two copies of the recessive "e" will shut of black and the coat will be Yellow. There is a second gene that we test to determine the color of a litter of puppies. This is the "E" gene. It works in same manner as the "B" gene but it actually determines the color of the coat and it works with the "B" gene . The Black Labrador in the "B" gene example above carries the dominate "E" gene. We know this because we can see his Black coat. The Yellow Labrador with the black nose, eye rims and pads has inherited two copies of the recessive "e" which shuts off the ability of the "B" gene to express itself as a Black coat; again we know this because we can see her Yellow Coat. From this we can make a pretty good start at guessing at the Genotype of each of the three Labradors in the "B" gene example above but we cannot know the full Genotype just yet. The "*" indicates what we don't yet know. The Black Lab is B*E* The Yellow Lab with the black nose, eye rims and pads is B*ee The Yellow Lab with the chocolate nose, eye rims and pads is "bbee" But now, we also have the fourth example....the Chocolate Lab The Chocolate Lab is bbE* Note that we don't know the mode of inheritance in all but one example above. There are two ways to learn what should be in the place of the "*". The old fashioned way was to simply breed a dog to other dogs and wait to see what colors they would throw. A Black Dam mated to one Black Stud might throw just Black coated puppies; but, with another Black Stud, she might throw two colors and with a third, maybe all three colors. In the latter case, we would know that her Genotype was BbEe. The way we do it now is to genetically test the B and E genes in our dogs (of course, we don't need to test the E gene in a Yellow dog because we already know that the Genotype is "ee".) If you'd like more information on how we can attempt a guess as to how many of each color puppy would be born to a pairing of genotypes, see the chart linked below. But, that is just the start of genetic testing for coat colors. Other genes determine the shading of the Yellow coated Labrador (from Fox Red to White) as well as determine whether the Labrador will have white spotting or the rare brindling and mosaic coat. You read about Genetic Panel Testing on our Genetic Health Testing Page and how it is changing how breeders can determine things such as the co-efficient of inbreeding more accurately; well, it is also helping us discover why, every so often, we have these rare coat colors pop up in a breeding. The link above opens on a new page so you can quickly find your way back here to read the rest of this page.... S- Locus - White Spotting in the Pure-bred Labrador retriever K Locus - Solid Color A - Locus - "Reds" Genotype is hidden while Phenotype is seen B = Black; b = Chocolate; E - no Yellow; e = Yellow; KB = solid; S=White (There is also "A" which is responsible for the red tint seen in some dogs and for the tan point, brindle and mosaic labradors and "C" which determines the shading in the Yellow coats, but for the purpose of this page, we are focusing only on the genes named above.) In the first part of this page, we learned about Genotype as it pertains to Black, Yellow and Chocolate Labradors. So, let's take a look at the full genotype where color and pattern are concerned. A Black Labrador can have one of the following genotypes: BB/EE/KB-KB/SS - no hidden Chocolate or Yellow, Solid Colored, may express a few white hairs Bb/EE/KB-KB/SS - hidden Chocolate, no hidden Yellow, Solid Colored, may express a few white hairs BB/Ee/KB-KB/SS - no hidden Chocolate, hidden Yellow, Solid Colored, may express a few white hairs Bb/Ee/KB-KB/SS - hidden Chocolate, hidden Yellow, Solid Colored, may express a few white hairs BB/EE/KB-KB/Ss - no hidden Chocolate or Yellow, Solid Colored but with white spotting Bb/EE/KB-KB/Ss - hidden Chocolate, no hidden Yellow, Solid Colored but with white spotting BB/Ee/KB-KB/Ss- no hidden Chocolate, hidden Yellow, Solid Colored but with white spotting Bb/Ee/KB-KB/Ss - hidden Chocolate, hidden Yellow, Solid Colored but with white spotting I'm not going to list all the genotypes for a Chocolate or Yellow Labrador, but you have gotten a good idea of the process, so let's move on to those white spots and the rare brindle or mosaic Labradors and the genes responsible for them. 1/1 The Genetics of Color in the Labrador retriever DNA has proven that these miss-marked dogs are pure-bred Labradors with the health and temperament of their solid colored siblings. The Tan Point, Brindle, or Mosaic Labrador are rare. This page focuses more on the White Spotting which is more commonly seen. ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Many a breeder and many a poor Dam has been accused of miss-mating when a litter includes a few Black or Chocolate Dogs with white spotting on their chest or when a puppy or two were born with tan points, brindling, or even those very rare "mosaics". No matter how the Breeder might protest that there was no way any puppy in the litter couldn’t be from the Sire they had used, the accusers would walk away shaking their heads still believing that puppy just couldn’t be a pure-bred lab. Buyers walked away and Breeders scorned other breeders…until it would happen in one of their own litters. You will even see debate raging on various social media platforms today despite all the knowledge that we have gained from genetic testing. Those who still maintain that a miss-marked Labrador is the result of an accidental pairing do so out of an ignorance of the science which proves them wrong. If you’ve ever learned the history of the Breed, you know that the ancestors of the Labrador were black and white coated St. Johns Water Dogs. With the goal of producing a solid black dog, the old-timers would only breed dogs with the most black in their coats; eventually, they were able to breed solid black to solid black until they consistently were producing litters with mostly solid black dogs. But even then, there would be a few “liver coated” dogs or “yellow coated” dogs; and sometimes, a black dog with white on its chest. Those old-timers continued for many generations to breed black to black removing the other colored dogs from their breeding programs but the gene responsible for the expression of white hairs was still being passed down generation to generation just as the genes for liver (chocolate) and yellow coated dogs were. Because the old-time breeders bred only black to black, the gene pool was small enough that most of those solid black dogs carried two copies of "S" and no copy of "s" so the white inherited from the St. Johns Water Dog did not “express” itself very often. And this rarity is what led to the common belief that a “miss-mating” had taken place and the poor black or chocolate lab with the white on its chest or the yellow with a lot of white expressed was a “mutt”. Eventually, a closed kennel which produced litters bound to provide some service, would from time to time see white spots on the chests of Labrador puppies born under strict controls; controls that meant that there was no possibility of a miss-mating. This was evidence that there was some recessive gene that was causing pure-bred dogs to express those white hairs. Science eventually proved that to be true, but even before that, the AKC and Labrador Retriever Clubs rewrote the Breed Standard to state that “a white spot on the chest is acceptable but not desirable” in dogs that were shown in breed competitions acknowledging that these dogs were in fact, pure-bred Labradors. We know now that white hairs originate from the S Locus. The non-mutated form (S) makes it possible for a dog to express a few white hairs or none at all. It is a roll of the dice. The recessive version (s) of the gene means that the dog will express what is known as “white spotting”. And a dog with two copies of the mutated version (ss) will be solid white. The two main genes for coat color in Labradors are "B" and "E" and each puppy receives one copy of each gene from each parent; these genes follow the Dominant/Recessive expression where "B" cancels "b" and "E" cancels "e". So, a puppy getting BB is not going to be Chocolate nor is a puppy getting Bb because the "B" cancels or hides the "b". It is the same for the "E" gene; in order for a dog to be yellow, it must get two copies of "e". The "S" gene however is co-dominant and therefore only one copy of the mutated "s" will result in expression of the recessive which is the expression of white. And we also know now that the “red” that is sometimes seen in a Black or Chocolate coat and quite often in the traditional Yellow coat in what is known as the “Fox Red” comes from the “A” locus as does the more rare tan points and brindling and even perhaps the mosaic. We even know now that a SINGLE CELL can experience a mutation during the gestation process turning , for example, "ee" into "Ee" in just that one cell! How does this express itself in the coat of a Yellow Labrador? Through a Black spot of hair! So, if someone tells you that your pure-bred puppy with some white on it's chest or a white ring around its tail isn’t pure-bred, all you need to reply is “DNA says differently”. Your puppy is every ounce a pure-bred Labrador from genetically tested parents descended from the black and white St. Johns Water Dog - the first Labrador retrievers. NEXT: COI - THE CO-EFFICIENT OF INBREEDING Coat Color Inheritance Chart for Labrador retrievers
- Breed Education | Aisling Labradors of N.E. Florida | near St. Augustine, FL, USA
Responsible Breeding "Ask questions and listen to answers, trying always to separate the relevant from the useless. Do not become hidebound by specific ideas; question everything, even what I am saying and what I write in my books. Think about everything, digest it, discuss it and ask more questions. Always try to learn and advance your understanding of the breed. You must not breed (only) by the numbers (hips/elbows). A good breeder goes about the job with a set aim of trying to produce functional dogs that approximate to the ideal. Don't struggle for perfect hips! Hips need be no better that what will give a dog an active pain free life, and to struggle for better can/WILL mean losing other dogs from the gene pool who have good things to offer, such as temperament. A dog is a whole animal, not just a pair of hips!” Dr. Malcom B. Willis Know Your Breed Remember the traits that exemplify the Labrador Retriever. It isn't only about Hips and Elbows. Genetic Health Testing Learn about the diseases relevant to the Labrador and how we do our best to ensure that your puppy will not inherit one of them. The Genetics of Color Ever wondered how we know what colors will be born to a breeding pair? It all sounds really complicated but once you have a basic understanding, it's pretty simple. COI - co-efficient of inbreeding All Purebreds are inbred. But too much inbreeding causes issues like infertility, small litters, and shortened lifespans. Learn about the different ways breeders are working to lower the COI averages of our Breed. Hip Dysplasia in Labradors Despite phenotypic testing and selective breeding for more than 60 years, hip dysplasia is still an issue in our breed. How to continue to improve the odds for successful outcomes. Elbow Dysplasia in Labradors Information on Elbow Dysplasia and it's place in the responsible Breeder's "tool kit" and the Owner's shared responsibility for good outcomes. Weaning and Feeding This is mostly an "extra page". As a Breeder, I am always on the lookout for the best practices in breeding healthy litters. This page is written for other breeders doing the same as me in that regard, but, there is also something for new puppy parents as well.